by Andrew, Irene, & Margaret Li
I tend to associate different cookbooks with different times of the year–even if, like this one, they contain recipes suitable to make all year long. This is one I tend to pull out towards the end of spring, when vegetables start showing up at farm stands in full force and spring/summer CSAs are ramping up. I first read this book around that time of year in 2020 (a traumatic time for all, which is probably why it is seared in my brain), when I had just joined a CSA at a new-to-me farm, Farmer Dave’s in Dracut MA. This also has a good number of recipes using winter root vegetables and other storage crops (cabbage, I’m looking at you–the charred cabbage salad is amazing).
As with most cookbooks I read, I first test-drove it from the library. As soon as I read through it, I decided needed it in my life and bought myself a copy. This turned out to be true, since I still cook from it regularly.
The Li siblings, of Mei Mei fame (formerly a food truck & café in Boston’s Fenway district , currently a dumpling factory and café in South Boston), are from Boston and their cooking incorporates seasonal New England ingredients–definitely helping to make a dent in the CSA box.
On their website somewhere (although I can no longer find exactly where), they describe their cooking as “Creative Chinese-American flavors: inspired by our roots and love for New England ingredients,” and I couldn’t have said it better.
One recipe that I make a lot from this book is the soy and honey glazed roots and greens. This is perfect for those gorgeous bunches of roots (beets, turnips, carrots, etc.) with lush greens attached. They are a breeze to make and really quick.
They go with pretty much any protein that needs a side (I’ve eaten these alongside chicken, rabbit, steak, sausage, etc.)–or you could just eat them with rice, noodles, or some crusty bread for a full meal. I also make it with green-less roots and throw in some arugula or Swiss chard, and that turns out just as delicious.
Another easy one that uses up loads of greens is the scallion cheddar bread pudding. Look at all that cheesy goodness!
There’s also a leafy greens gratin (which is a cheesy rice bake with kale or other greens). It’s great for CSA kale-overload time in late summer, since it uses two whole bunches. Also good to make mid-winter if you gave up on kale earlier in the season and froze some, since it works well with bags of chopped frozen kale from the freezer.
I’ve always loved a good scallion pancake and finally made my own!
They were so much fun to put together and after making them a few times (to practice the dough part–I am not a natural at this), definitely a doable mid-week dinner item.
More fun with dough are the dumpling recipes. There are a number of mouth-watering variations given in the book–and I’ve made (and loved) them all. Shaping them takes a little practice, or at least did for me, but now I can make dumplings that mostly look like dumplings. Luckily, misshapen dumplings are still tasty. They are also a great way to use up leftovers–just fill with a spoonful of whatever you have around (assuming it’s spoonable). Taco dumplings ended up a fan favorite in the house.
Speaking of leftovers, Irene and Margaret have since published a cookbook together, Perfectly Good Food: A Totally Achievable Zero-Waste Approach to Home Cooking, which is about exactly what the title says. It is full of inspiration for cleaning out the fridge and using up food that maybe isn’t in its prime, but is still entirely edible and can still be made delicious. I haven’t cooked enough from it yet to give a thorough review, but so far so good (the Freestyle Vegetable Summer Rolls are great for using up small random bits of greens, herbs, and crunchy vegetables). On the website for the book there are a lot of food storage tips and recipes, which give you an idea of what’s in the cookbook. Margaret is currently working on a third cookbook (no release date mentioned anywhere that I could find, though).
But back to Double Awesome…
If you are into rice and/or noodle bowls, there are a number of great ones in here. Some are quick to put together and some require a little bit of prep, but are absolutely worth the effort. The Li’l Kimchi is in the spirit of bibimbap (비빔밥)–different piles of things on top of rice that you stir together just before eating. There are many iterations of that type of rice bowl out there, but they key to a good one like this is the perfect harmony of flavors and textures. Crunchy peanuts and soft tofu, the sharpness of pickled vegetables, spicy raw greens… ok now I’m hungry!
I am a huge fan of salads of all kind (except maybe those weird midwestern Jell-O “salads”–no judgement if those are your jam, though) and two from this book have become favorites. The Beekeeper’s Salad and features arugula, or other peppery greens, tossed with a yogurt dressing and topped with almonds, fresh mint leaves, and honey (and, optionally, bee pollen).
The the other is the super-quick-to-make Magical Kale Salad. The garlic panko (and feta) on top makes it magical. This is key to keeping my CSA kale supply under control.
The Smacked Cucumber Salad, with it’s herby/spicy/salty/sour dressing is a great side for anything rich (in the picture I had it with pan-fried scallops)–including simply adding some chunks of avocado. Plus, as stated in the recipe headnotes, it’s fun to smack things, and you really do get to take your frustrations out on some unsuspecting cukes :).
Another favorite is the Hot and Sour Borscht. It’s a genius melding of Asian (Thai and Korean) and Eastern European flavors. Eaten hot or cold, this is a great make-ahead soup for reheating–or for eating straight from the fridge on a hot summer’s day.
I could go on and on (although I’ve run out of things I’ve photographed), but I’ll end this by saying that every single recipe I’ve made in the book, I’ve made multiple times. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately?), this makes it difficult to try new recipes since the ones I’ve already tried are so good that I end up making them again. I’m determined to cook my way through the entire book, eventually, though.
rabbit hole kitchen 
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